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Cutting
Corners and Falling Through the Cracks
By
Jeannine Patané • April 2005
If
you are a master at lining shelves with contact paper or you know
the art of toasting marshmallows, and you’re ready for more
worldly projects, try roofing your house with thermoplastic polyolefin
(TPO). I don’t want to make membrane application sound easier
than it is; it just takes some patience and finesse to transfer shelf
lining and marshmallow toasting skills to your roof. Keep in mind
however, improper TPO adhesion can cause frustrations, delays and
waste, and exposed TPO adhesive can even cause a fatality, as it did
on our job site. Let me explain further.
Tom needed a new roof and Keith was
excited to take on the project. With a Dallas phonebook between their
greasy restaurant plates and coffee cups, they scanned the yellow
pages for the closest roofing supplier to the downtown restaurant
and called the number to see if the supplier was open for business.
When they received an answer, they tipped the surly waitress and headed
out the door.
Tom described his problematic flat roof
to Greg, the owner of the roofing supply business, and Greg immediately
talked Tom out of using conventional bitumen materials by introducing
him to TPO. Both Tom and Keith were sold. Greg was elated to see residential
use of TPO, because he almost always sees it used commercially, such
as the TPO application on the marquee-like Denver International Airport.
He offered his knowledge, equipment and assistance to help us through
the process. When the guys returned back to the house, all I knew
was we were going to put on some kind of “alternative”
roofing system. I had no idea what was to come.
It took the three of us, along with
seven Spanish speaking day-laborers, to strip off the badly patched
standing seam metal roof and fill a 30-yard dumpster. We had a lot
of cleanup and substrate patchwork to do. As artists see it, we were
prepping the canvas for the medium. Then Greg showed up with a rented
trailer and all of our paper, TPO, termination bar, pipe boots and
corner flashing. He even loaned us his roller and hot air welder for
seam sealing. Greg said he would return after we complete the job
to check our seam work.
TPO is self-adhesive; it looks like
giant rolls of contact paper and is applied in a similar manner. You
try to avoid bubbles and folding, and it’s a one-shot deal with
full adhesion. The easier the transitions are sculpted with the substrate,
the easier it is to achieve a smooth look and good seaming. A 3-inch
minimum overlap gets folded onto the fascia around the roof. We left
a few initial corners unfinished to figure out good termination, and
because of this, we had a fatality.
When we got to a roof corner, we didn’t
adhere the TPO and just left it hanging like a tablecloth off the
corner of a table, so we could take some time to figure out how to
best terminate the corners. When
we finally figured out a good way, I went back to finish all the uncut
corners. Slicing a corner open, I was aghast to what I saw. It was
a large gecko, perfectly and fully stuck to the TPO adhesive. It had
to have jumped onto the membrane, because TPO is so sticky, it couldn’t
have crawled that far onto the sheet. I thought about David Letterman’s
Velcro wall, and a guy in a Velcro suit that springboards himself
onto the wall. Yeesh. My dilemma—how do I get the poor
soul off of the TPO to finish the corner?
“Keith!” I shouted. Keith
came over and his stomach was as unsettled as mine. To scrape the
gecko off would mean scraping blood, flesh and guts everywhere while
it all stuck to the membrane. Keith began scraping and I couldn’t
watch. He quickly got too grossed out to continue. I suggested just
cutting the surrounding area out, and then I’ll deal with patching
over it. Keith squeamishly did the deed and I thanked him. The gecko’s
tail was still hanging out when I went to finish the corner, so I
swiftly ran my utility knife over it and shivered.
When
giving Tom the sad news of the gecko, he responded, “What a
way to go.” Tom is aware of how sticky the adhesive is, both
on the membrane and on the pipe boots. Before the boots were adhered,
he was putting them on his head and reliving 1980’s DEVO music
videos. He also tried hot air welding the seams of the TPO. I compared
welding seams to toasting marshmallows. The membrane should get hot
enough to soften and melt the adhesive, but there’s a fine line
between just enough heat and melting the membrane. We took our time
to practice the art of membrane cooking.
Hopefully the TPO will last longer then
the memories of our trial-and-error experiences. There’s something
fun about a white membrane roof. Tom was inspired to do a Yup’ik
dance on his roof, because it reminded him of a tundra landscape.
After a rain, I walked barefoot on the roof and felt a strong deja
vu of my time on yacht decks. The other night we had a full moon,
and being up on the rooftop felt like a moonscape, with the pipe boots
and vent caps resembling miniature UFOs. This white membrane covering
is energy-star rated, low maintenance, and cleaner and longer lasting
than traditional bitumen roofs. It’s a serendipitous inspiration
and a stage for the world we live and toast marshmallows in.
How
to remove liquid asphalt filler from an animal hide floor covering
Greg
recommended a deviation from mixing instructions for asphalt filler
so we could get the right consistency to use the product on the roof.
The filler was used to build up a substrate transition between fiberboard
layers. Our first pour proved to be too liquefied, because we discovered
a pool of the filler on the living room floor. The filler sunk under
the layers of fiberboard, through the plywood seams, past the insulation
and found an opening large enough between a ceiling beam and the sheetrock
to drip onto the floor. There was splatter everywhere in the surrounding
area.
The filler has a latex quality; to clean
it off most surfaces took a scour pad and scrubbing. Unfortunately,
the edge of an animal hide floor covering got saturated with the filler,
and was beyond cleanable. The saturated area had to be cut out. When
cutting animal hide, cut with a blade underneath, not on the top fur
side. By cutting underneath, you avoid cutting the hair, which leaves
the natural fur’s appearance. It’s also an easier, cleaner
cut to make.
The hide had splatter surrounding the
saturated area. I removed the majority of splatter by shampooing it
and vigorously brushing the hide with a fingernail brush. A pumice stone
was used on tougher splatter, raking in the direction of hair growth.
It didn’t clean up 100%, but the majority of splatter came out.
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The
Roof Crew

Keith

Thomas

Jeannine
For
more behind the TPO installation process, go to Projects:
Richardson, TX—The Flat Roof
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